Shoe and method of making the same



J. A. GREEN.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION FILED DEC. I0, 1919.

1 348, 94 1 Patented Aug. 10, 1920.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

I a ,JZmea d .'re'en 351 a A GREEN.

SHOE'AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

APPLICATION HLED DEC. 10. 1919.

1,34 ,941, Patented Aug. 10, 1920.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2- wumtoz lzme 0- Gwen- "UNITED STATES.

PAT-E-NT; ()FFICE- A. GREEN, OF' DOLGEVILLE, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO DANIEL GREEN FELT SHOE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHU- SETTS.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THESAME:

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 10, 1920.

' Application filed December 10, 1919. Serial no. 343,772.

To all whom it may concern: r

Be it known that 1, Laws A. GREEN, a citizen of the United States, and a resident ofDolgevill e, in the county of Herkimer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoes and Methods of Making the Same, of which the following is a specification, reference being made to the accompanying drawings, forming a partthereof.

My invention relates particularly to improvements in the structure and methods of manufacturing turned shoes in which the vamp and upper are preferably composed of felt or other pliable material, such as cotton, silk or even soft leather, while the outer sole made of a light thin leather is provided with a cushioned inner sole projecting upwardly from such outer sole within the shoe which is finally molded to shape upon a last by the shrinking or contracting of the material composing the upper.

The objects of my invention are, among other things, to improve upon the methods of constructing such turned shoes which are made wrong side out, turned and finally shrunk or molded to form upon a last, and

also upon the finished structure of the shoe itself as made by my improved method, whereby a soft-soled'tu nedshoe or slipper is provided in which a circumferential marginal recess 01' pocket is formed inside the stitching which unites the outer sole and felt or pliable upper and against the mar 'nal 35,

shoulder formed by the outer edges 0 the padding comprised in the cushioned inner sole, such recess or pocket being used to snugly contain the sewed ridge or seam necessarily produced by the stitching together of upper and outer sole without caus-. ing such sewed-ridge or seam to project inwardly and extend along the exterior line of the inner tread of the shoe. By my improvements such sewed seam or ridge is also wholly concealed within the shoe, thereby being fully protected against wear onloosening of the stitches since itis-contamed in such pocketed recess extending. around the exterior line of the tread of the shoe and inside the stitching uniting the felt or pliable upper to the outer sole, but wholly within the Y trating the pa YVith these and other objects in view, the

invention comprises not only the shoe havmg the novel features of construction herein shown and described, but also in the improved methods of making the shoe, the inventionbeing further described herein and then particularly pointed out in the appended claims,

In the accompanying drawings showing the invention in a preferred embodiment'of a shoe having a felt upper and thin leather outer sole, Figure 1 is a plan view illusding for the cushioned inner sole stltched to the cloth backing secured to the inner side of the outer sole;

F ig; 2 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 2-2 shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view taken on the line 3-3 shown in'Fig. 1; 1

Fig. 4 is a detailed sectional view illustrating the manner of stitching together the upper, outer sole and cloth backing along their outer edges, taken on the line 44 shown in" Fig. 5; r

Fig. 5 is a plan view illustrating the upper, outer sole and cloth backing sewed together; i

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary side View of the heel portion of my improved shoe looking in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 5 before the inner soleor sock lining is attached; v

Fig. 7 is a plan view illustrating the inner sole partly secured to the theretofore assembled upper, outer sole and cloth backinghaving the padding attached thereto;

"Fig.,8 is'an enlarged sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7;

v Fig. 9 is a side elevation of the completed shoe or slipper;

Fig.'10 is a sectional view of the completed shoe, the tread portion being shown in elevation and ing shrunk or molded to form upon a last, the view being taken upon line- 11-11 in Fig. 10.

Similar numerals refer to similar parts throughout the several figures. 1 V

By way of example I will set forth my improved method of making these turned shoes or slippers as shown in the drawings as heretofore stated in connection witha soft-soled felt shoe, and is preferably'practised as follows :The upper 12 composed of felt or other pliable material is first cut to proper form and stitched at the rear end of the shoe as indicated at 13 shown in Fig. 6. Preferably aseparate piece or welt 14 of the same material is sewed in around the heel portion and at the bottom of the stitching 13 to form a suitable pocket for a heelpad to be thereafter placed therein when the parts of the shoe are assembled and sewed 'together before the shoe. is turned and shrunk or molded to" form upon a last.

The stitching 16 unites the'upper edges of f the welt 14 to the lower edges of theupper 12 about the heel portion as shown inFig. 5. Theouter sole 15' comprising preferably a single piece of thin leather is then cut to v the shape and size required by the length and width of the felt shoe or slipper proper.

The cushioned inner sole or sock lining for the inner tread of the shoe is formed by first securing a padding 17, preferably composed of-hair-felt or carded wool and cut in a slightly\smaller size and less .area than the outer sole 15, to a cloth backing 18 by the vstitching 19, preferably zig-zag in formation, along the outer edges of the padding as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, after the padding 17 has been carefully laid flat upon the backing 18, the stitching 19 serving tocno't only secure the padding to the cloth backing, but also to retain "such padding in place against disarrangement creeping or bunching of such padding, either during the process of manufacture or when the shoe is worn.

As shown in Figs. 1 and 3, the padding 17 is arranged on the backing 18 and outer sole 15 to leave a marginal s ace or recess 20 inside its .outer edges. he stitching 19 in conjunction with the exterior edges of the paddin 17 form a shoulder 21 extending along t e exterior line of the tread of the shoe'somewhat inside the outer edges of the outer sole 15 and cloth backing 18, such shoulder 21 forming one side of the marginal space. 20 which provides a recess to contain the stitched seam joining the upper 12 to the outer sole 15 with its thereto secured backing 18.- I

After the padding 17 has been secured to the backing 18 by the zig-zag stitching '19,

the backing is secured to the inner. side. of

cured thereto as just explained is secured along its outer edges by stitching 23 to the lower outer edges of the upper 12 and welt 14 as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, these parts being united to form the general structure of .the shoe, while each is wrong side out; such stitching 23 extends along the outer side of the marginal space 20 as shown in Fig. 4,

contained within the recess 20 as particularly shown inFigs. 8 and'10. lVhile the. shoe is in this stage of'formation a heel; pad 25, also preferably made of hair-felt or carded wool and cut to shape to form a spring heel within the heel portion of the shoe about the welt 14, is placed upon the heel portion of the padding 17, as shown in Fig. 8, and then the inner I sole or sock lining 26 cut to shape to cover .the'pad and padding is secured .over such padding 17 and heel part 25 by a line of stitching 27 running along the sewed ridge upper 12, welt 14, outer sole 15 and cloth backing 18. Such stitching 27 may readily be performed by a machine thereby avoiding hand sewing heretofore used in attaching the inner sole 26 to the upper 12 and welt 14., Where a shoe or slipper without .a spring heel is desired, '1 omit the heel pad 25 and the welt 14 which forms the pocket in the upper suitable for-the heel pad when the shoe is turned, the inner sole 26 then covering the padding 17 throughout its length and being sewed to the lower edges .or seam 24 adjacent the outer edges of the of the upper 12 by the stitching 27 extending along the entire outer edge of the upper 12 and throughout the entire extent of the outersole 15, adjacent the seam 24.

After the shoe is brought to the stage shown in 'p rt by Fig. 8, the shoe is practically fini ed so far as assembling and securing the component parts together.

- The shoe is now to be turned and shaped or molded to the desired form, and to accomplish this readily the upper 12 is wetted r slightly, and the shoe is turned right side out as shown in Figs. 9 and 10. The upper of the shoe is now thoroughly dampened or wetted by plunging same in water, after .which preferably a hollow bottom last 28 is inserted within the interior parts of the shoe as shown in Fig. 11, thereby slightly stretching. the upper 12 and at the same time forcing the inner cushioned sock lining upwardly into the concave recess of the last to form a slightly arched inner sole afli'ording the desired soft cushion for the sole of the foot. However an ordinary. 'flat-bottomed last may be used'in laceof the holthe sewed ridge or seam 24 is thereby forced less advantageous results.

performed shoes.

. understood that outer sole. I I I While the'shoe structure and method of 10W bottom last 28, though with obviously During the dryis on the last 28,

ing process while the s e the "felt upper shrinks and molds itself to the shape and contour of the last, and the outer leather sole 15 is stretched flat while within, and is contained by,,the marginal recess 20 extending around the exterior tread of the shoe, so that such seam 24 can not projectwithin the tread of the shoe to be felt by] the foot when the slipper is worn.

It will be observed that all the stitching steps in my improved method of making 1 these felt shoes or slippers may be readily by machinery, thereby saving "her {and time in' producing such A'nd fifrther it will be particularly the marginal recess 20 formed just inside the outer edges of the upper and outer 'sole against the shoulder formed by the hair-felt padding being firmly secured to the inner side of such outer sole, provides suflicient space into which the sewed ridge or seam 24 may be forced into the recess 20 through the shrinking of the 'shoe'on the last, within which recess this prominent seam may be tucked away and concealed without exposing the stitching. 23 to possible loosening or wear, and withouthaving the wardly along the exterior line of the inner tread of the shoe; furthermore the forming of a fixed shoulder by securely attaching the edges of the padding to the cloth backing thereafter'p'asted to the outer sole prevents the padding from undesirably creeping or bunching along the liner side of the great making-same" embody the invention in its preferred form, it will be understood that changes and variations may be made in the various detailed features without departing from the principles'and scope of the invention herein disclosed.

I claim as my invention i 1. The method of making shoes which consists in securing a padding on the inner side of an outer sole insidethe outer edges of said sole, then attaching. said'outersole with the thereto secured padding to an upper, all theparts being wrong side out, then securing an inner sole over, said padding, then turningflthe shoeso made right side out, and finally lasting same to form.

m 2. The method of making shoes which consists in securing a padding on the inner side of an outer sole by a line of stitching inside the outer edges of said sole, "then .attaching said-outer sole with the thereto-secured padding to an upper by a line of stitching along the outer edges of the outer sole and upper, all the parts being wrong side out, then securing an inner sole over 7 the outer edges of said sole,

said outer sole with the thereto secured seam project upright side out, and finallylasting same 'to form.

3. The methodeof making shoes which OOIlSlStS in stitching a padding along its outer edges to a backing and thereafter securing the backing to the inner sideof an outer sole, said stitching extending inside the outer edges of said sole, their attaching said outer sole with the thereto secured padding to an upper, all the parts being Wrong side'out, then stitching an inner sole over the padding along the outer edges of the sole and upper, then turning the shoe so made right side out, and finally lasting same to form. 1

4. The. method of making shoes which consists in stitching a padding along its outer edges to a backing and thereafter securing the backing tothe inner side'of an outer sole, said stitching extending inside then attaching paddin to an upper by a line of stitching along t e outer edges of the outer sole and upper, all the parts being wrong side out, then stitching an inner sole over the padding along the outer edges of the sole and upper, then turning the shoe made right side out and finally lasting same to form.

5. The method of making shoes which consists in securing a padding on the inner side of an outer sole 1ns1de the outer-edges of said sole, then attaching said outer sole withthe thereto secured padding to an up- '100 per having a welt extending around the heel portion of the shoe, all the parts being wrong side out, then laying a pad over the heel portion of said padding, then securing an inner sole over said pad and pad ding, thenturning the shoe so made right side out, and finally lasting same to form.

6. Themethod of making shoeswhich consists in securing a padding on the inner side the outer edges of said sole, then attaching said outer sole with the thereto. secured. padding to an upper having a welt extend ing around the heel portion of the shoe by outer edges to a backing and thereafter se- 1 "curing the, backing'to the inner side of an outer sole, said stitching extending inside the outer edges of said sole, then attachingsaid outer sole with the 'thereto secured padding to an upper having'a welt extend- 130 a line of stitching along the outer edges 11 made of an outer sole by a line of stitching inside 11 ing around the heel portion of the shoe, all the parts being wrong side out, then laying a pad over the heel portion of said padding, then stitching an inner sole over said pad and padding along the outer edges of the sole, upper and welt, then turning the shoe so made right side out, and finally lasting same to form.

8. The method of making shoes which consists in stitching a padding along its outer edges to a backing and thereafter securing the backing to the inner side of an outer sole, said stitching extending inside the,outer edges of said sole, then attaching said outer sole with the thereto secured padding to an upper having a welt extending around the heel portion of the shoe by a line of stitching along the outer edges of the outer sole, upper and welt, all the parts being Wrong side out, then laying'a pad over the heel portion of said padding, then stitching an inner sole over said pad and padding along the outer edges of the sole, upperand welt, then turning the shoe so made right side out, and finally lasting same to form. 1

9. -A turned shoe comprising a molded upper stitched to an outer sole along their respective inturned outer edges combined with an upwardly projecting cushioned inner sole of less area than said outer sole thereby providing a marginal recess inside said stitching to contain the inturned stitched seam uniting the upper and outer sole.

10. A turned shoe comprising a molded upper stitched to an outer'sole along their respective inturned outer edges combined with an upwardly projecting cushioned inner sole of less area than said outer sole, said cushion being secured along its edges to said outer sole, thereby providing a marginal recess extending around the tread of the shoe between said stitching and said cushioned inner sole to contain the inturned stitched seam uniting the upper and outer sole. I

11. A turned shoe comprising a molded upper stitched to an outer sole along their respective inturned. outer edges combined with an upwardly projecting cushioned inner sole of less area than said outer sole, said inner sole beingstitched to said upper and outer sole along the stitching uniting.

the same, thereby providing a marginal recess extending around the tread of the shoe inside said stltching to contain the inturned stitched seam uniting the upper, cushioned inner sole and outer sole.

12. A turned shoe comprising a molded upper stitched to an outer sole along their respective inturned outer edges combined with an upwardly projecting pad of less area than'said outer sole, said pad being held fiat to said outer sole by stitching along its edge and an inner sole stitched to said upper and outer sole along the stitching uniting the same and outside the stitching for said pad, thereby providing a marginal recess extending around the tread of the shoe inside said outer sole stitching to contain the outer inturned stitched seam uniting the upper, pad, inner sole and outer sole.

JAMES A. GREEN, 

